Author: Julie

 

When we returned from Carnivale in Brazil in February, we noticed for the first time a new dock with a boat on Victoria Island near the embassies.  The boat was a gorgeous, new ~110’ Sunseeker Predator, whose hull is made of gleaming black fiberglass. 

Rumors abounded throughout the Expat community about whose it was and what it was doing here in Lagos.  And thus it continued until recently when, while at the beach house, we struck up a conversation with a passing couple who just happened to be associated with the big, black boat.  It turns out that the boat is the recent purchase of the owner of a local Nigerian Oil Company, who has brought it here to his offices and home, along with a small operational crew.  Currently, the boat is limited to the area of the waterway in front of our apartments, since tides and shifting sands have now trapped it there until a new channel can be dredged.  After crossing paths with these people a couple of other times around Lagos, they invited us to take a tour of the vessel – And so we did!  We were blocked at the entrance to the docks by security guards with automatic weapons, until we were met by our new friends, who escorted us aboard.  It is a high-performance yacht described by the Sunseeker as “hedonistic”.  The boat is outfitted with a hot tub on deck, multiple bars, a huge salon living room and dining room with ~50” electronic concealed TVs, and surround sound.  It is powered by three 3000hp diesel motors that will drive the vehicle at up to 46 knots, slurping up its 11,000 liter fuel capacity in a matter of hours, (~$4000 per fill-up).  It sleeps 8 guests in 4 huge staterooms, and sleeps another 4 in its crew’s quarters.  Everything is electronically operated, from the window shades, to the security cameras, to the dual bow and stern side-thrusters.  Sadly, the owner seldom has the chance to use it, as he has other demands on his time, and this is only his latest “toy”.  It truly was a beautiful vessel, and Julie and I would gladly take one as a gift, if anyone is so inclined!

 

Julie at the bridge…

Julie trying the Captain’s seat….

The salon….

Betty O spoke to American Women’s Club about the cultural significance of head ties as a fashion accessory and fashion statement.  Nigerian fashions, as fashion around the world, take their cue to change and evolve by national events and effects. Betty has lived in Nigeria for 45 years and is married to a Nigerian man.  In Nigeria there are 3 distinct cultural areas of the country.  The ‘Hausa” are from the north, the “Ibos” from the east and the “Yoruba” from the west. The Ibos head ties are noted for their flying saucer like shape.  The Yoruba are the ladies of high fashion.  If one reviews African history and pictures there were no head ties on the women until the 1850’s.  It is accepted that the influence of Christianity caused women to cover their hair.  Head ties have evolved with the times.  A head tie is a piece of fabric 2 foot by 2 yards twisted, knotted and pinned into shape.  In the 1950’s a British company “Hayes” made most of the Yoruba high fashion head ties.  In the 1970’s those head ties incorporated N  and $ (Naira or money) symbols into the woven fabric and other high society associated symbols including the Mercedes Benz symbol.   In the 1970’s the more popular head ties came from Switzerland.  Today they come from China.  Head ties are fashion statements and you never wear the same head tie to an important event.  People here have excellent memories and remember what you wore.  It is acceptable to wear a dress more than once but only if with a new head tie each time.  Nigerians are extremely fashion conscious and will starve to have a new head tie.  A head tie is also symbol that one is married.  A responsible married woman wears a head tie that is wind around the head at least twice and with an “Ashoke” which is a shawl around the waist or over the shoulder.    There was a time when head ties were made of silk.  But when a head ties is old or of floppy material one has to stuff it with a plastic bag or paper for it to hold its shape.  Damask was used by the wealthy ladies as head ties because it was heady.  However, it was also difficult to tie.  If you are high fashion Nigerian then once a year you will clean out your head ties and distribute them to relatives who do not have as much as them. It is also quite fashionable to take old head ties turn them into quilts. 

 

Fashioning a head tie:

 

 

 

 

Betty O wearing a buba (dress) and holding a “Naira” head tie.

  

Head ties:

 

A few weeks back we had dinner with a friend who was turning 50.  The occasion was one of dress up, that is, if you could come up with a costume that began with “F” or “G”.  It was all great fun as everyone got into the spirit.

 

 A Gypsy & Rugby Player

 

 A General & a Pilot

 

 A French Boy, Gypsy & a Floozie

 

 The famous pirate Guy

 

 A Floozie

This week and next the American Club known as the GQ (Guest Quarters) welcomes the men and women of the USS Nashville, 400 strong to Lagos.  They were accompanied by the Navy Band (the Europe branch from Naples).  They are here as part of African Partnership Station 2009 (APS), the biggest maritime partnership program ever in Africa.  They have already visited Liberia, Senegal, Ghana and now Nigeria and will head to Cameroon next week.  The APS mission is seminars, workshops and hands-on training conducted with Nigerian sailors, including sessions on port security planning, small boat maintenance, medical training, search and rescue training and oceanographic methods.  APS is an international initiative under the auspices of Naval Forces Africa which aims to work cooperatively with U.S., European and African partners to enhance maritime safety and security on the African continent. APS provides a unique venue to align maritime engagements by utilizing an international team of expert trainers in a variety of military capacities and civilian fields such as fisheries management, port security and meteorology.  Here in Nigeria their travel has been somewhat restricted so the GQ opened the facility for them; swimming, a bazaar for shopping and American BBQ.  Rocky and I went to the GQ both on Saturday and Sunday, did a little shopping, listened to the Navy Jazz quintett

and conversed with the Navy men and women and ate American cheeseburgers.  Some sailors spent the day trying to access the internet (always an unknown), others were in the pool or getting a massage, some worked out in the gym and several were shopping at the bazaar

and learning what they could about Lagos and the culture here.  The crew has navy men/women enlisted less than a year to several that have been there 20+ years. The crew also do charity work while here. They donated school supplies and medical supplies to 2 of the American Womens Club charities. The USS Nashville navy crew and the marines stationed at the embassy participated in the Race for a Cure run, visited local schools, and allowed the scouts and other children groups to tour the vessel. The bar at the GQ was packed with sailors.  There were 40 vendors on the tennis courts and everyone appeared to be enjoying the sunny weather and the frozen margaritas!   

Saturday was the 3.5 mile run for the Susan G. Komen for the Cure.  It was held at the American Independent School Lagos.  The goal was to have 250 runners/walkers to raise funds to purchase a mammogram machine.  It was wildly successful!  The school was decorated in white and pink ribbons.  There were teams and individuals participating.  The Shell Women’s Network had all Shell employees in polo shirts with a large pink ribbon on the front.  The USS Nashville was here in Lagos as part of the African Partnership Station 2009 with 400 Navy men & women.  Their Commodore, Ms. Cynthia Thebaud, is a breast cancer survivor.  Forty-seven of the crew participated in the run; one of them winning it.  The US Ambassador to Nigeria Robin Renee Sanders participated.  The local South African grocer “ShopRite” entered a team and one of their employees came in second.  Rocky and several of our neighbors participated.  It was a mix of Africans and expatriates, navy and marines, teachers and pupils running for a great cause that made a successful and fun race.

 School courtyard awash in pink & white ribbons

 Rocky and Friends

 Ambassador Sandoers motivating the runners.

 Warming up

 The Winner -a navy man!

  The ShopRite man took second place.

 Here comes Rocky!

 Navy and Marine participants

After we returned from the new year, we were invited by a Scottish Expat couple who are friends of ours to a ball on Saturday, January 24^th – something called “Burn’s Night”.  Now we had never heard of “Burn’s Night” before, and it was subsequently explained to us that the occasion was being celebrated all over the world, (locally sponsored by The Caledonia Society), in honor of Scottish history and Robert Burn’s, (his birthday is January 25^th), the most famous author/poet in Scottish history, who wrote passionately of Scottish independence, and his love of women, whiskey and song.  The party was a very formal affair, with traditional Scottish kilts, formal tuxedos and ball gowns.  The ballroom was decorated in purple and red sashes with Scottish Coats-of-Arms displayed everywhere.  Approximately 300 people attended from every nationality, race and religion, and it was a very scripted affair.

  

The night began with a formal Receiving Line of the Society’s Officers, from which we were steered directly to your choice of Champagne or Scotch Whiskey as the warm-up.  After ~30 minutes of arrivals and social meandering, everyone took their seats and the program began with a procession of bagpipes and officers.  We listened to welcoming addresses, and stood for the Scottish National Anthem, The Nigerian National Anthem, and a round of “God Save the Queen”, at which point we got down to business with a couple of traditional Scottish dances to which everyone was expected to participate in, (kind of a combination of square dances and line dances).

 

This then led to the most important procession and the occasion for the President of the Society to “Address the Haggis”!  Again, a bagpipe-led line paraded, with a matron carrying the ceremonial “haggis” on a silver tray, being honored by all.  A few rounds of Robert Burn’s poetry, honors to the ideals of the Scots, numerous rounds of toasts, and it was then time for dinner – for starters haggis, taters, and carrots; main dish of beef, chicken or veggie; a sweet puddin dessert; lots of wine & whiskey. 

 

After dinner, it was time for the address of the “Laddie’s”, where a learned male scholar discusses & exposes the great virtues and strengths of the stronger sex.  This is then followed by the reply from the “Lassie’s”, who led a stirring exposé on the historic shortcomings of men, both in competence and anatomically.  Finally, the speeches being complete, it’s just the tea, coffee, and Baileys along with 12 participant Scottish dances by a traditional Scottish folk-band, flown in for the occasion from the U.K.  It being past midnight already, we decided our night was calling for an end, but we expected the party would continue long without us into the wee hours of the night.

  

The Flowerstalk Tea room is in the Flowerstalk Florist Shop.  Tuesday I attend an Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony there.  The American Women’s Club has monthly coffee meetings and today was not the usual coffee meeting. Instead it was a sharing of hospitality. 

The Ethiopian coffee ceremony is a part of the social and cultural life in Ethiopia.  The young lady roasted coffee beans over a very small charcoal pit.  She then moved around the room letting us smell the beans…. very nice aroma.  Next she put the beans in the most beautiful coffee pot with a long neck and then simmered the pot over the small charcoal pit. 

The coffee was served in very small cups with no sugar or cream and was delicious.  It was not strong or weak but very pleasant.  The coffee was served with bowls of popcorn and roasted grain.  NO individual dishes but everyone sharing from the same bowl.  This is considered a way of sharing and a mark of friendship or respect.  There is no hurry and it is definitely ceremonial.  Thus far probably the most relaxing and interesting coffee I have attended!

 

Where would we be without friends?  Strong friends when it comes to a pool table.  When the pool table was unassembled and crated in the USA, we were under the impression that there would be an assembly group here in Nigeria.  Having had repair men come to change a ceiling light bulb without a ladder and the plumber come to fix plumbing with only a screw driver, it became clear to us that we would be assembling the pool table ourselves.  The frame was intact but having been stood on end it had one broken board. 

 The furniture carver that has made us a new top for our bar came to the rescue and made us a replacement for the broken board. 

 

Then with the help of 5 strong neighbor men we uncrated the 3 slates, (~300 lbs each), and placed them in position.  I was no help as my leg still did not bend from my knee surgery, and I really can’t walk like one should. 

We brought a new felt with us from the USA, and we then began to level and re-surface the table in preparation of stretching the new felt over it. 

The men were all promised game-time at the table once it was complete.  It takes a small village to assemble a pool table.  Rocky spent the next week plastering and sanding the seams and imperfections in the slate, and then stretching the new felt over it and tacking the edges. 

 The more difficult part was cutting and stretching the felt over the pocket cutouts, especially on the sides.  Once the felt was on, holes were cut on it to match the slate holes where the rails assemble on top of it.  The rails themselves were interesting to assemble!  The entire rail assembly must be done at one time, upside-down, and then flipped over to bolt unto the table.  This is because, once assembled, the slate hides the screw holes for the pocket-rods.  Once the rails are bolted on, then the leather pocket baskets must be tacked to the table to complete the job.  The only problem was the disassembler in Houston had simply pulled the pockets off, damaging a number of the leather ends, requiring a lot of detailed, custom assembly adjustments.  By mid-January, however, the Pool Table was assembled – and it plays fantastic!! 

 

January 20, 2009

10:00am Washington DC is 5:00pm here in Nigeria.  So at 5:00pm I met some British friends and went to the American Club (or the GQ as it is known locally [Guest Quarters]) to watch Obama’s Inauguration.  Rocky and I generally attend Happy Hour at the GQ once a week and there are 2-10 people in the bar then.  It is a very casual atmosphere with people talking, using the Internet and American CNN on the TV (not the International version).  Today there are at least 150 people crowded in the bar.  The attached dining room has its doors wide open as a bar extension and had most of its tables removed and extra chairs placed.  It is crowded to the point of standing room only. 

 The GQ serves only American food and drink all of which are imported from Houston Texas.  Tonight there are 4 TV’s running and the food represents Obama’s home states of Illinois and Hawaii.  Thus, the menu consists of Chicago Cubs hot dogs, Coconut fried shrimp with pineapple sauce and BBQ ribs.  We joined a table of other British friends and proceeded to order wine and margaritas (GQ makes the best) and watch the Inauguration.  We sampled all the food items and they were quite good especially the shrimp. When Obama was sworn in as President, the people in the bar were so quiet you could hear a pin drop. 

 When Obama was President the crowd stood and clapped and whistled.  The Nigerians in the crowd waved small American flags. 

The crowd was very respectful of Obama’s speech and again erupted in cheering and flag waving when it was over. 

All in all quite a party and celebration.  Several of my friends left work to go home and sit and watch the Inaguration via International CNN.  I really enjoyed the party and atmosphere of the GQ.  GO OBAMA!

 

 

The Harmattan is a dry and dusty West African trade wind that blows south from the Sahara into the northwest coast of Africa and Nigeria this time of year.  The results are low quality air, a haze that limits visibility, and potential significant restrictions on travel.  It is intermittent from November through March, but is often worst in January and February.  Although most people complain about the interruptions it causes to their daily routines by covering everything with dust, and impacting their breathing, the Harmattan also pushes out the hot, humid weather, and replaces it with cooler, (about 10 degrees F cooler), and dryer weather.  It also provides for some spectacular sunrises and sunsets, as the dust refracts the light into soft, colorful images.  In its minor form, it is a nuisance, but if a major event kicks-up, airline travel stops, and people may not be able to travel far outdoors.  This is what happened on Rocky’s last trip into Port Harcourt.  Upon his return flight, scheduled to depart at 9:30 in the morning, the Port Harcourt airport was shutdown for lack of visibility and air conditions, (conditions are usually worse in the morning, and improve during the day).  By 1:00PM, conditions had finally improved enough that planes were allowed to land and takeoff again, making for a nearly all day experience to travel a 45 minute flight.

Please note there are no clouds in the sky, just a haze covering everything.