Detomos Abroad

Although this is a blog about our experiences in Africa, we think of Brazil as a “sister” country to Nigeria.  After all, they were connected millions of years ago before the continents rifted apart.  And if one is going to visit Brazil, what better time than at Carnivale, and what better way then by sailing the coast between San Paulo and Rio de Janiero!  So, for the last 2 weeks of February, Rocky and Julie flew from Lagos, Nigeria, through the U.S. to South America.  We planned this trip as part of a group of 16 wonderful friends, and bareboat chartered 2 monohull sailboats, (47’ & 41’), and 1 catamaran, (44’). 

Wakia (our boat)

We spent 3 days getting from Lagos to Rio de Janerio via Houston, where we could spend some time seeing old friends, and gathering a few supplies for the trip.  After arriving in Rio, we took chartered vans to the marina in Angra dos Reis, (the “Area of Kings”), provisioned the boats, and left looking for adventure and discovery.  On Day #1, as we crossed the warm waters of the bay looking for wind to fill our sails, we encountered a very large school of dolphins (~50). As we motored along the dolphins dove and rode the waters next to the hull off the boat.  Then the dolphins started jumping and splashing us, and showing off for our cameras.

It was an hour of fun for them and us, and was a positive omen of the good times to come on this journey!  We will not recall all of the adventures of the trip here, but simply summarize our impressions and highlights of the country.

 

Brazil is lush, green mountainous country with a rocky coast and row upon row of mountains rising on the horizon inland.  Although it was raining on the day we arrived, it soon got sunny and hot (~95 degrees F), and remained that way the entire rest of our trip.  There was not much wind in the mornings but we had some fine sailing in the afternoons. 

 Evenings on the boat were cool, although the temperature onshore remained hot and humid.  With the wonderful weather, we took every opportunity to sight-see villages and anchorages along the coast and to snorkel among the rocky shores. 

During mornings, we ate breakfast either ashore or collectively on the boats at anchor.  We would then head off to a new location where we would meet up for lunch, either at a beach or anchorage. 

Afternoons were spent sailing until dark, when would usually “raft” the boats together in a new-found bay and either eat dinner ashore, or collectively grill and “socialize” until the wee hours of the morning. Every day was a new collections of sights, places and experiences, interspersed with a few special stops described below.

 

Parity – One of the first locations we wanted to visit was a very old town at the southwestern edge of the area called Parity.  This was the original port village from which silver and riches were taken from the country back to the old world in the east.  The city has preserved the “old town” area, where motor vehicles cannot travel; where the roads are laid with enormous cobbles; and where even the donkey carts struggle to navigate the streets.  It is a collection of shops, open markets, restaurants and churches, each constructed or restored to its 16^th-17^th century status.  We took slips in a nearby marina, and spent the day exploring the town,

enjoying the sights and sounds from an outdoor café overlooking the bay, and starting our shopping.  During the evening, we ate seafood and beef at a wonderful family restaurant, highlighted by local wines and friendly service.  Our sadness at leaving this town was only highlighted by the fact that we wished we had made it back there, but the rest of our adventure lay to the northeast – toward Rio.

 

Angra dos Reis – After a few days and nights exploring the western coast of the bay, and the bay side of Isle Grande, (an enormous island that protects the entrance of the bay), we stopped back at the marina to port for the night, update our supplies for the upcoming long journey, and to secure final approvals to take the boats 90 miles to the east to Rio.  The Verolme Marina operates next to a large shipyard that was working on two enormous jackup drilling rigs to be used in the booming oil & gas industry off the coast here. 

This port town also serves as the national oil company’s, Petrobras, center for offshore operations, and therefore, the city of Angra is a vibrant, growing community.  While we were there for the night, we decided to travel via taxi into the central part of the city for dinner, (the cab driver’s brother’s restaurant?), where we were left at a local seafood restaurant in the middle of town.  We took a table outside in the courtyard overlooking the street, ordered our meals, and were pleasantly surprised as a “Blocko” can passing by us! 

Blockos are carnivale street-parades that are usually founded by a neighborhood group, who arranges traveling musical entertainment and a large number of costumed Samba dancers, and are joined by revelers singing, dancing, and traveling down the street.  Everyone was friendly, joyful and entertaining – a small slice of the local festival season, as seen from a local point of view.

 

Rio de Janiero – The long journey to Rio starts with an anchorage the night before at the eastern most bay of Isle Grande.  Since there are no ports between Angra and Rio, we needed to plan for a trip that would leave as much margin as possible for potentially unfavorable conditions or equipment breakdowns.  We estimated that the trip would take 10-14 hours, and that we would convoy the boats together up the coast.  We left anchorage at 5:00am, and for the first time on the trip, everyone stayed alert, (and sober), for the day’s journey.  However, all went well, and it was a remarkable hour at 3:00pm as we motored along Rio’s famous beaches of Barra, Sao Conrado, Leblon, Ipanema and Copacabana, waving to the throngs on the shore. 

 Our Catamaran sailing past Copacabana Beach

We then spotted the world famous landmark of Cristo Redeemer on Corcovado above the city, rounded Sugarloaf Mountain and sailed into Marina Gloria to our slips in the city. 

From here, we spent 4 days in the city, exploring the beaches and restaurants, shopping and seeing the city’s famous sights.  The beach is everyone’s favorite destination, and Brazilians spend as much time there as possible with as little on as they need.  Although the beaches are numerous and very large, there is barely room to walk to make your way to the water.  Other highlights while there included a marathon jeep tour, which took us through the sights in the city into the middle of another Blocko in the area of Saint Teresa, allowed us to visit Cristo & Jardin botanical gardens and waterfall, and allowed us to watch the landing of parasails off the mountain onto the beach. 

  Aquaduct and church (the triangluar structure)

 Copacababa Beach – a mass of humanity

 An amazing sand castle

On Sunday night before Mardi Gras, we all traveled from the marina via Rio’s excellent subway system to the Sambadromo, a dedicated facility just for Carnivale’s Samba competition.  The competition involves 12 Samba Studios that compete on two nights, (6 each night – Sunday and Monday).  They have ~75 minutes each to “present” themselves to the judges and the crowds of 10’s of thousands in the Sambadromo stands, (and 100’s of thousands outside), that have gathered.  Each Samba Studio’s presentation includes traveling up the Sambadromo 8-lane-wide avenue, with ~6 huge, animated, elaborate floats interspersed each with groups of ~500 Samba dancers in ornate feathered costumes, all while the same 30 second Studio samba theme booms over the speakers. 

During the presentation, everyone stands, waves the Studio’s flag and sings their theme’s words in their support.  The presentations start at 9:00pm, and at ~85 minutes each, with ~15 minutes between each, take until daybreak the next morning.  We left before the end at 5:00am, and the crowd had lost little of its numbers or energy level!  It was definitely an experience like no other in the world!

 

Porto Frado – We regretfully left Rio for the long day’s journey back to Angra dos Reis.  After an uneventful return, we did, however, have time to explore a few other interesting ports, one of which impressed us most, was a resort at Porto Frado at the southwestern end of Angra.  By this point, our boat was on our own, and so we decided to explore some poorly defined areas on the map.  The resort at Porto Frado is recent, and is now home to one of the most impressive collection of opulent yachts that one is likely to come across.  Apparently, wealth, (legally or illegally obtained), is difficult to export from Brazil, and so many of the areas wealthiest opt to purchase ridiculously huge, (100’ to 200’ long), custom yachts, outfitted with every convenience known to man, to which they helicopter in for a day’s relaxation or evening dinner.  We, on the other hand, took a mooring ball away from the dock, but ate dinner at their local dockside restaurant, people-watched, and toured their facilities and shops. 

 From there, we sailed back for a last night at port in a little fishing village on Isle Grande, where we purchased ~10 lbs of fresh shrimp.  With the last of our veggies and grilled on the barbeque, we ate our final dinner in Brazil, as we watched the sun set over our stern behind the mountains on the mainland. 

Tomorrow, we would return the boat, and begin the long series of flights back to Africa.

 

 

I also had the opportunity to visit another American Women’s Club (AWC) charity – the Carduso Catholic Women’s Center.  This charity is also on the mainland in an area called Ajenunle. The Women’s Center is part of a large complex which includes a clinic, a laboratory, a nursery school, a primary school, a high school, the nunnery, the priests’ home, a large catholic church, a public library and the Women’s Center. 

The Women’s Center is a vocational training center for women.  There are morning and afternoon sessions currently with ~ 300 women enrolled (no woman interested in bettering herself is turned away).  They are taught the skills of cooking and baking, housekeeping, sewing and knitting.  The Women’s center makes the uniforms for the school children in the primary and secondary school as well as some items for a small shop. 

 

 

Today when we arrived at the schools, the nursery and primary school were celebrating Cultural Day.  Unknownst to us we were the guest of honor! 

 

Quite a surprise – however, we had come with gifts in kind including stuffed animals for the nursery students. 

We also had personal care items for the Women’s Center, notebooks for the schools and food for the student’s kitchen.  This is a very organized campus run by Sister Bernadette, PhD, who trained at Berkley in California and has been here for many years. Sister has the help of 3 other nuns.  We watched the nursery school students sing and dance for us, toured the entire facility and meat by cooked by the women’s center students. 

  Mrs Adakpo Head Teacher

 

 Singing for us

 

 Dancing for us

 

   

 

The school is especially proud of their Library, the computer center and the chemistry Lab.  This complex while huge was clean and orderly and because of its size is supported by numerous groups around Lagos. 

  The sewing classroom

 A nutrition lecture in progress

 

This facilty does not consider themselves needy or poor.  Monthly they take up collections in the church for the less fortunate then they – note the St Vincent de Paul boxes out side the church.

 

Today I made the journey to the mainland to visit one of the American Women’s Club (AWC) charities.  We actually went via bus with black out curtains donated by Mobil Oil for the morning. The driver was in a coat and tie with an armed guard in the front passenger seat. The adventure began when the driver missed the exit and took a shortcut down dirt streets lined with people not vehicles.  It was barely passable.  However, we made it to our destination via this colorful route. 

The Beth Torrey Home is in Apapa, an area near the port of Lagos. 

This home has 17 mentally and physically challenged children cared for by a staff of 7.  The children greeted us with song, “Welcome to the home of the Lord”.  

AWC supports this charity with in kind gifts (mattresses, toys, clothing and food) as well as by paying the salaries of the workers.  Several of these children recently participated in the Nigeria Special Olympics and proudly showed us their photo album of the event.  We toured the one building facility and met with all the staff. 

 One of the bedrooms

They have electricity via a donated generator.  As we toured the kitchen I noticed a freezer that had a plaque on it stating “Donated by Shell Nigeria Petroleum” (Rocky’s employer).  It was a very clean environment with caring staff. 

 The outdoor kitchen & laundry

The staff and children were greatly appreciative of the personal care items that we brought today as well as the 100 pound bag of rice.  The AWC in coordination with another group has helped the home purchase a new 3 building facility (living quarters and learning complex) which they hope to move into shortly.  Hopefully I can visit the new complex and show it to everyone.

 

 The head mistress Mrs. Opie and her assistant.  One of them is in the home 24 hours a day caring for the children.  Mrs. Opie has been here 27 years.

 

When we returned from Carnivale in Brazil in February, we noticed for the first time a new dock with a boat on Victoria Island near the embassies.  The boat was a gorgeous, new ~110’ Sunseeker Predator, whose hull is made of gleaming black fiberglass. 

Rumors abounded throughout the Expat community about whose it was and what it was doing here in Lagos.  And thus it continued until recently when, while at the beach house, we struck up a conversation with a passing couple who just happened to be associated with the big, black boat.  It turns out that the boat is the recent purchase of the owner of a local Nigerian Oil Company, who has brought it here to his offices and home, along with a small operational crew.  Currently, the boat is limited to the area of the waterway in front of our apartments, since tides and shifting sands have now trapped it there until a new channel can be dredged.  After crossing paths with these people a couple of other times around Lagos, they invited us to take a tour of the vessel – And so we did!  We were blocked at the entrance to the docks by security guards with automatic weapons, until we were met by our new friends, who escorted us aboard.  It is a high-performance yacht described by the Sunseeker as “hedonistic”.  The boat is outfitted with a hot tub on deck, multiple bars, a huge salon living room and dining room with ~50” electronic concealed TVs, and surround sound.  It is powered by three 3000hp diesel motors that will drive the vehicle at up to 46 knots, slurping up its 11,000 liter fuel capacity in a matter of hours, (~$4000 per fill-up).  It sleeps 8 guests in 4 huge staterooms, and sleeps another 4 in its crew’s quarters.  Everything is electronically operated, from the window shades, to the security cameras, to the dual bow and stern side-thrusters.  Sadly, the owner seldom has the chance to use it, as he has other demands on his time, and this is only his latest “toy”.  It truly was a beautiful vessel, and Julie and I would gladly take one as a gift, if anyone is so inclined!

 

Julie at the bridge…

Julie trying the Captain’s seat….

The salon….

Betty O spoke to American Women’s Club about the cultural significance of head ties as a fashion accessory and fashion statement.  Nigerian fashions, as fashion around the world, take their cue to change and evolve by national events and effects. Betty has lived in Nigeria for 45 years and is married to a Nigerian man.  In Nigeria there are 3 distinct cultural areas of the country.  The ‘Hausa” are from the north, the “Ibos” from the east and the “Yoruba” from the west. The Ibos head ties are noted for their flying saucer like shape.  The Yoruba are the ladies of high fashion.  If one reviews African history and pictures there were no head ties on the women until the 1850’s.  It is accepted that the influence of Christianity caused women to cover their hair.  Head ties have evolved with the times.  A head tie is a piece of fabric 2 foot by 2 yards twisted, knotted and pinned into shape.  In the 1950’s a British company “Hayes” made most of the Yoruba high fashion head ties.  In the 1970’s those head ties incorporated N  and $ (Naira or money) symbols into the woven fabric and other high society associated symbols including the Mercedes Benz symbol.   In the 1970’s the more popular head ties came from Switzerland.  Today they come from China.  Head ties are fashion statements and you never wear the same head tie to an important event.  People here have excellent memories and remember what you wore.  It is acceptable to wear a dress more than once but only if with a new head tie each time.  Nigerians are extremely fashion conscious and will starve to have a new head tie.  A head tie is also symbol that one is married.  A responsible married woman wears a head tie that is wind around the head at least twice and with an “Ashoke” which is a shawl around the waist or over the shoulder.    There was a time when head ties were made of silk.  But when a head ties is old or of floppy material one has to stuff it with a plastic bag or paper for it to hold its shape.  Damask was used by the wealthy ladies as head ties because it was heady.  However, it was also difficult to tie.  If you are high fashion Nigerian then once a year you will clean out your head ties and distribute them to relatives who do not have as much as them. It is also quite fashionable to take old head ties turn them into quilts. 

 

Fashioning a head tie:

 

 

 

 

Betty O wearing a buba (dress) and holding a “Naira” head tie.

  

Head ties:

 

A few weeks back we had dinner with a friend who was turning 50.  The occasion was one of dress up, that is, if you could come up with a costume that began with “F” or “G”.  It was all great fun as everyone got into the spirit.

 

 A Gypsy & Rugby Player

 

 A General & a Pilot

 

 A French Boy, Gypsy & a Floozie

 

 The famous pirate Guy

 

 A Floozie

This week and next the American Club known as the GQ (Guest Quarters) welcomes the men and women of the USS Nashville, 400 strong to Lagos.  They were accompanied by the Navy Band (the Europe branch from Naples).  They are here as part of African Partnership Station 2009 (APS), the biggest maritime partnership program ever in Africa.  They have already visited Liberia, Senegal, Ghana and now Nigeria and will head to Cameroon next week.  The APS mission is seminars, workshops and hands-on training conducted with Nigerian sailors, including sessions on port security planning, small boat maintenance, medical training, search and rescue training and oceanographic methods.  APS is an international initiative under the auspices of Naval Forces Africa which aims to work cooperatively with U.S., European and African partners to enhance maritime safety and security on the African continent. APS provides a unique venue to align maritime engagements by utilizing an international team of expert trainers in a variety of military capacities and civilian fields such as fisheries management, port security and meteorology.  Here in Nigeria their travel has been somewhat restricted so the GQ opened the facility for them; swimming, a bazaar for shopping and American BBQ.  Rocky and I went to the GQ both on Saturday and Sunday, did a little shopping, listened to the Navy Jazz quintett

and conversed with the Navy men and women and ate American cheeseburgers.  Some sailors spent the day trying to access the internet (always an unknown), others were in the pool or getting a massage, some worked out in the gym and several were shopping at the bazaar

and learning what they could about Lagos and the culture here.  The crew has navy men/women enlisted less than a year to several that have been there 20+ years. The crew also do charity work while here. They donated school supplies and medical supplies to 2 of the American Womens Club charities. The USS Nashville navy crew and the marines stationed at the embassy participated in the Race for a Cure run, visited local schools, and allowed the scouts and other children groups to tour the vessel. The bar at the GQ was packed with sailors.  There were 40 vendors on the tennis courts and everyone appeared to be enjoying the sunny weather and the frozen margaritas!   

Saturday was the 3.5 mile run for the Susan G. Komen for the Cure.  It was held at the American Independent School Lagos.  The goal was to have 250 runners/walkers to raise funds to purchase a mammogram machine.  It was wildly successful!  The school was decorated in white and pink ribbons.  There were teams and individuals participating.  The Shell Women’s Network had all Shell employees in polo shirts with a large pink ribbon on the front.  The USS Nashville was here in Lagos as part of the African Partnership Station 2009 with 400 Navy men & women.  Their Commodore, Ms. Cynthia Thebaud, is a breast cancer survivor.  Forty-seven of the crew participated in the run; one of them winning it.  The US Ambassador to Nigeria Robin Renee Sanders participated.  The local South African grocer “ShopRite” entered a team and one of their employees came in second.  Rocky and several of our neighbors participated.  It was a mix of Africans and expatriates, navy and marines, teachers and pupils running for a great cause that made a successful and fun race.

 School courtyard awash in pink & white ribbons

 Rocky and Friends

 Ambassador Sandoers motivating the runners.

 Warming up

 The Winner -a navy man!

  The ShopRite man took second place.

 Here comes Rocky!

 Navy and Marine participants

After we returned from the new year, we were invited by a Scottish Expat couple who are friends of ours to a ball on Saturday, January 24^th – something called “Burn’s Night”.  Now we had never heard of “Burn’s Night” before, and it was subsequently explained to us that the occasion was being celebrated all over the world, (locally sponsored by The Caledonia Society), in honor of Scottish history and Robert Burn’s, (his birthday is January 25^th), the most famous author/poet in Scottish history, who wrote passionately of Scottish independence, and his love of women, whiskey and song.  The party was a very formal affair, with traditional Scottish kilts, formal tuxedos and ball gowns.  The ballroom was decorated in purple and red sashes with Scottish Coats-of-Arms displayed everywhere.  Approximately 300 people attended from every nationality, race and religion, and it was a very scripted affair.

  

The night began with a formal Receiving Line of the Society’s Officers, from which we were steered directly to your choice of Champagne or Scotch Whiskey as the warm-up.  After ~30 minutes of arrivals and social meandering, everyone took their seats and the program began with a procession of bagpipes and officers.  We listened to welcoming addresses, and stood for the Scottish National Anthem, The Nigerian National Anthem, and a round of “God Save the Queen”, at which point we got down to business with a couple of traditional Scottish dances to which everyone was expected to participate in, (kind of a combination of square dances and line dances).

 

This then led to the most important procession and the occasion for the President of the Society to “Address the Haggis”!  Again, a bagpipe-led line paraded, with a matron carrying the ceremonial “haggis” on a silver tray, being honored by all.  A few rounds of Robert Burn’s poetry, honors to the ideals of the Scots, numerous rounds of toasts, and it was then time for dinner – for starters haggis, taters, and carrots; main dish of beef, chicken or veggie; a sweet puddin dessert; lots of wine & whiskey. 

 

After dinner, it was time for the address of the “Laddie’s”, where a learned male scholar discusses & exposes the great virtues and strengths of the stronger sex.  This is then followed by the reply from the “Lassie’s”, who led a stirring exposé on the historic shortcomings of men, both in competence and anatomically.  Finally, the speeches being complete, it’s just the tea, coffee, and Baileys along with 12 participant Scottish dances by a traditional Scottish folk-band, flown in for the occasion from the U.K.  It being past midnight already, we decided our night was calling for an end, but we expected the party would continue long without us into the wee hours of the night.

  

The Flowerstalk Tea room is in the Flowerstalk Florist Shop.  Tuesday I attend an Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony there.  The American Women’s Club has monthly coffee meetings and today was not the usual coffee meeting. Instead it was a sharing of hospitality. 

The Ethiopian coffee ceremony is a part of the social and cultural life in Ethiopia.  The young lady roasted coffee beans over a very small charcoal pit.  She then moved around the room letting us smell the beans…. very nice aroma.  Next she put the beans in the most beautiful coffee pot with a long neck and then simmered the pot over the small charcoal pit. 

The coffee was served in very small cups with no sugar or cream and was delicious.  It was not strong or weak but very pleasant.  The coffee was served with bowls of popcorn and roasted grain.  NO individual dishes but everyone sharing from the same bowl.  This is considered a way of sharing and a mark of friendship or respect.  There is no hurry and it is definitely ceremonial.  Thus far probably the most relaxing and interesting coffee I have attended!